Walking the Green Coast of Minho

Arrive in Viana do Castelo and your base for the week, Casa Melo Alvim.

You stay at Casa Melo Alvim.

hotel details

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Casa Melo Alvim , Viana do Castelo

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As the oldest urban manor house in the town, this welcoming hotel was originally built in 1509 and has been lovingly restored. No two rooms are the same, each have been individually decorated in the traditional Portuguese styles of the 17th & 18th centuries. A buffet breakfast is served at the hotel restaurant, there’s also a guest bar with a fantastic terrace and gardens.

This walk is entirely by the coast and takes you along the coast northwards from Viana. It provides easy walking with the route going as far as the resort town of Vila Praia de Ancora, with opportunities to shorten the walk if you wish.

Apart from one modest hill at Montedor mid-way along the route (and occasional sand-dunes) the walking feels more or less level. Most of the way there is an excellent path, often with generous boardwalks, although as this is also a cycleway you need to keep an eye open for bikes. Some of the time you have the option to walk along the beach.

You will see old windmills (moinho) and you can find iron-age salt pans and bronze-age rock engravings, both carved in granite outcrops. There will be opportunities for swimming in the sea but please note that there can be dangerous undertows and currents so we suggest you only bathe at supervised beaches. Return by train (not included).

Sitting on the hill immediately behind Viana do Castelo is an over-the-top 19th century basilica. On a fine day the views from here are tremendous (and we understand even better from the roof). To get up to this church, you have the choice of 650 or so steps – a sign at the bottom translates as ‘My God help me get up’! Alternatively you can take the funicular, if its running.

Behind the church is a circuit mainly through forest to a charming hamlet with the little chapel of S Mamede. To get there, you descend from the basilica through eucalyptus forest to the stone Arcos (arches) do Fincão, from where you walk along the top of ancient, square-cut stone water pipes for more than 2km. Quite extraordinary.

When you have nearly completed the circuit, you pass the ruins of a Celtic settlement (Citânia), dating from 4th century BC, which is sometimes open to the public. There are raised walkways for visitors to view the site without causing any wear and tear.

Taxis are required to start point and from end point (not included). This route gives an opportunity to experience the beautiful and varied landscapes in the area of the Serra de Arga range, north east of Viana. You will walk through villages, past farms, through woods and forests and also get plenty of views. There are rivers and waterfalls, and wonderful pools to bathe or paddle in on a hot day. There are several old water mills, previously used for grinding corn, some still with their workings complete.

There are plenty of things to see and do in Viana do Castelo. Visit some of the museums, churches and cathedrals, arrange a wine tour, or just spend the day on the beach!

Trains are required to start point and from end point (not included).

This route takes you up onto the open hills in the far north west of Portugal, with tremendous views in all directions.

Walking up through villages, you pass a viewpoint and from there the ascent involves a steady plod up roads to a shady picnic site at a hilltop chapel, again with excellent views. After another 1.8km along a gravel road (providing access to wind turbines) the terrain becomes wilder as you descend SE then contour round to the west. On the way you pass another chapel (13th century), again with a shady picnic site, eventually reaching a viewpoint just above the coast.

Descend through interesting villages, a mix of the old and the new, to the coastal town of Moledo. Here there are plenty of opportunities for a refreshment stop and / or a swim in the sea. If you've had enough, you could curtail the walk here (the route passes the railway station).

From here, our route turns north through shady pine forest and along boardwalks back to Agonia station - or you can continue into Caminha, with its historic square, a good place to while away some time if waiting for a train.

Taxis are required to start point and from end point (not included). This route takes you up onto the rocky massif of the Serra da Arga, north east of Viana, where you get great views in all directions. Starting in the village of Montaria, the path climbs quite steeply up onto the mountain, often following ancient paths made from slabs of granite. You can't help but wonder at the effort that went into making these tracks. Many times you will see eroded grooves in the rock created over years of use by sleds and carts. Mostly the route finding is straightforward, with occasional way marking, but there are times where growth of the vegetation makes it more challenging.

Reaching the plateau, you walk along a gravel road to the eastern end where there is a viewpoint near the chapel of Sr. do Minho. You are likely to see herds of wild horses on these hills. You may well notice how the stallions keep their wandering herds in check. They are more nervous than in the past since a pack of wolves moved into the area, having migrated westwards from the Parque Nacional da Peneda-Geres. If you see large dog footprints in the mud, well, they may be dogs but they may not be... however, you are extremely unlikely to see the wolves themselves.

Turning north west along the plateau, you walk along gravel roads and tracks, passing a number of wind turbines, before swinging west then south for a pleasant descent, once again on ancient tracks, back to Montaria. Here there are cafes where you can get refreshments before your transfer back to Viana.